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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.